Though he’s long been well known and well regarded amongst the sort of folks who’d read a blog about food and cooking, Michael Pollan’s quickly becoming a household name. So far, his year’s started off pretty well, first with the publication of his latest book and this week with Food, Inc., a documentary in which he was heavily featured, being nominated for an Oscar. If you haven’t yet seen Food, Inc., it’s certainly worth an hour and a half of your time.
The book, Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual is a surprisingly quick, compact read — I scrolled through the Kindle edition on my phone on a single morning bus ride (traffic was a bit more gnarly than usual that day, but you can read the whole thing cover to cover in an hour). It’s also a much different kind of book than Pollan’s other food books, In Defense of Food and The Omnivore’s Dilemma. Previously, Pollan has sought to explain why we eat the way we do, why the industrialized Western food system is the way it is and why that’s not necessarily the best thing for our health. Pollan has made such a reputation for himself as a food writer that it can be easy to forget that he’s a journalist — he teaches at UC Berkeley, in the school of journalism, after all. Explaining is what he does best.
Food Rules takes a different, much more prescriptive approach to the subject of the American diet, shying away from the question of why to answer the question of what we should eat. He starts with the premise that he rather academically explored in In Defense of Food, to “Eat food. Mostly plants. Not too much.” and then offers 64 ways to go about doing just that. There’s not a lot of scientific breakdown, not a lot of nutritional analysis, mostly time-tested, some would say common sense, advice on how to eat. Research involved talking to academics and scientists, but also cooks, anthropologists and other researchers who look at the history and the culture behind what we eat. The advice is casual, like something you might hear from your grandmother, instead of the rigid diatribes of whatever fad diet that’s currently sweeping the nation.
On balance, the book holds together very well. It’s short enough to be accessible, pithy enough to be memorable, specific enough to be helpful without being overbearing (one of the most important “rules” is that it’s ok to break the rules sometimes, as long as you let treats be treats). I would say that Pollan buries the lede a little bit, certainly from the perspective of this blog, as you have to get all the way to rule 63 for one of my favorites: cook.