There are plenty of great reasons to live in the Pacific Northwest, food being high on the list. We’re awash in all things local and sustainable and surrounded by interesting, creative chefs. One of our more noted regional fares is salmon, particularly the Copper River variety that just came into season. The story of the Copper River is that because it’s a long, glacier fed river that runs out of central Alaska, the fish from there are genetically heartier and fattier, selected by Darwin’s invisible hand as one of the finest species of fish to grace a plate. Almost thirty years ago, native son Jon Rowley first figured out how to ship the prized fish from Alaska without freezing or canning them, adding a bit of pomp over the years, and now the first runs of Copper River kings and sockeye are an annual tradition ¹.

Salmon gets a bad rap in some circles but I love it. Yes, it’s overexposed and often overcooked and poorly prepared, but when done right, it’s perfection. Fortunately, this is one of those cases where simplicity truly does reign, especially if you get high quality, fresh fish.

When you’re picking out your fish, there are a few things to look for. First is the species, usually Atlantic, King (also known as Chinook), Sockeye and Coho. Honestly, I’d avoid Atlantic salmon if possible, which tend to be commercially overfished, are less likely to be fresh and are shipped from as far away as northern Europe or South America.

Pacific Salmon are more blessed with sustainable fishing practices, more likely to be line caught and not previously frozen. King salmon are the most prized for their large size and relatively high fat content — don’t worry, we’re talking omega 3 fats here, the good stuff, which also contributes to its wonderful flavor. Sockeye salmon are smaller, a bit less fatty but also incredibly flavorful with a dark red flesh and usually a good deal at the market. Coho are the least fatty of the Pacific salmon with a much lighter flesh that most resembles the color you typically think of when you think of salmon. Whichever species you decide on, look for fish that are wild (not farmed), fresh (rather than previously frozen) and line caught instead of bruised in a net full of other fish ². I generally figure about a third to half a pound per person.

While you’re at the market, pick up two more ingredients: a lemon and a cedar plank. The plank may be a bit exotic, especially if you don’t live near the coast, so you may need to ask or even order online. You want them as basic as possible and don’t pay more than three or four bucks as you won’t reuse them.

When you get home, or at least an hour (preferably two) before you light the grill, the first thing you want to do is soak the cedar planks in water. Fill a roasting or pyrex pan with half an inch of water, add the planks, use a full glass of water to keep them submerged.

There’s one bit of work that is optional but will enhance your dining experience: deboning. Salmon have tiny, feathery pinbones that you’ll end up picking out of your teeth if you don’t remove them. Run your hand along the thickest part of the flesh and you’ll feel the bones poking through. I use a pair of needle-nose pliers (dedicated to just this purpose) to remove the bones and the trick here is to gently pull the bone in the direction it wants to go until it simply dislocates. Try not to tear the flesh of the salmon with the bones. I tend to leave the skin on as it helps the fish hold together a little better and doesn’t waste any meat, but feel free to remove it at this point. If you’ve got large fillets, you may need to cut them down to fit on your planks.

The preparation here couldn’t be easier: a generous amount of kosher salt and a little fresh ground black pepper. It doesn’t need anything else, I promise, you really want the flavor of the fish to shine through here (you’ve paid for it, after all!) and the plank will add a wonderful aroma. Save your rubs and sauces for winter when you’re pulling fish out of the freezer, this fish doesn’t want any herbs or spices. If you absolutely need to mess with it, add a few very thin slices of your lemon right on the flesh.

Bring your grill up to medium high heat ³, remove the planks from the water and put them on the grill for a few minutes, just until they start to smoke and your grill smells like a sauna. Lower the heat (or move to a cooler part of the grill) and place the fillets across the planks and let them grill, untouched, for about 20 minutes, just until done. The salmon flesh will lighten and turn opaque and will easily separate.

The fish doesn’t need much resting time and you can serve it right off the plank for a true Northwestern feel. Add a squeeze of lemon juice if you like. A green salad, fresh grilled asparagus, rustic bread, roasted potatoes or brown rice all make for wonderful sides. I love mine with a bright, hoppy pale ale like Deschutes Red Chair NWPA, Mirror Pond, Lagunitas IPA or even a Sierra Nevada. If wine is more your thing, a crisp white with a little bit of fruit like an Oregon pinot gris would work well or the fish will stand up to a red just fine.