Jus a quick note: I finally ordered someĀ Frantoia, the olive oil recommended by many cooks (perhaps most famously, Mario Batali). It’s a fabulous oil, all fruit and grass and pepper. Complex and overwhelming, it deserves to be served uncooked, drizzled over things.

At $25 for a quart, it’s pricy, but no pricier than the nicer stuff you’ll find in your local store. If you haven’t bought olive oil at this price point before, get ready for a whole new ballgame.