Boiled potatoes, that’s all they are. The reason I name then in Italian is that they deserve a bit of fancying-up, because they’re a good vehicle for discussion of simple ingredients, and because this recipe, like all the best ones, is based on a memory. The memory is of my Sardinian uncle Salvatore eating this three-ingredient dish as an afternoon snack. At twelve-year old, I was horrified. As an adult, I understand.

So, potatoes. What to do with them? Many foods have one “dominant dimension”, a spectrum from A to B; “dry” versus “sweet” wine, for instance. For potatoes, the most important such dimension is starchiness vs. waxiness.

Starchy potatoes are typically seen as “bakers”; they’re dry, mealy, and fluffy when cooked, so these are the guys you’ll want to bake, mash, or fry. Look for Russet, Idaho, or Baking potatoes in your store.

Waxy potatoes are higher in sugar and lower in starch. They hold their shape better than starchies, so you’ll want to use them on the grill, in soups, in salads, and when boiling (as in this recipe). They’ll usually be sold as Red or Yellow potatoes. (Yukon Golds fall in the middle of the spectrum; new potatoes are young versions of any of these, but typically Red ones.)

When boiling potatoes for most any preparation, start them in cold water; don’t wait for the boil to throw them in. They’ll cook more evenly, and faster. Cover the potatoes by 1 inch of water; add a tablespoon of salt; bring to a boil on high, cover and turn down to medium-low; simmer, stirring lightly a few times, for 10-20 minutes.

To test the doneness of your potatoes, you could just poke them, but given a sharp enough knife, this may be misleading (an uncooked potato could give in to easily to a Global blade.) Instead, attempt to lift them out of the water once you’ve poked: they shouldn’t hang on to the knife at all if they’re plate-ready. When they pass this test, drain them carefully and put them back in the (now dry) pot. Then do this wacky thing: Place a clean dish towel over the pot and cover it for a few minutes. What you’re doing here is helping to dry the potatoes a little more without shaking or otherwise upsetting them; that might break them up. The towel will absorb steam and you’ll have moist but not water-logged spuds (It took me this long to use the word spud?)

Next, peel the potatoes (if you want - I do), cut them in half or in quarters, and pour on the olive oil. Salt with fleur de sel. Enjoy as a snack, or as a side to a fish dinner. Salt and fat, helping a simple vegetable taste its best. That’s easy and tasty, and you can make it.